Materials
This page contributed by Kevin Klenk kklenk@wizard.cse.nd.edu
- Acrylic
- Generic name for soft, washable, colorfast fibers derived from
polyacrylonitrile.
- Aquator
- Two-layer knit of 65 percent cotton / 35 percent nylon, with the
nylon on the inside for moisture transport and cotton on the outer
layer for evaporation. Usually employed for hot weather underlayers.
- Bergundtal Cloth
- Columbia's proprietary Taslan nylon shell fabric, combining a soft
cottonlike hand and nylon's water-repellency. Often
polyurethane-coated to improve weather resistance.
- BTU
- A 100 percent polyester fiber from Hoechst-Celanese, distinquished
by its mix of fiber cross sections. Knit or woven into thicker
garments, BTU is an efficient insulator; made into a thin single-layer
shirt, its moisture transport properties help cool the wearer.
- Capilene
- Patagonia's treated polyester, used primarily in their
underlayers. The fiber surface is treated to make it hydrophilic
(water-loving) while the core remains hydrophobic (water-hating). The
combination lifts water away from the skin toward outer clothing
layers without soaking the fiber itself.
- Coated Nylon
- Nylon fabric (usually taffeta or ripstop) coated with urethane on
the inside to make it waterproof, not breathable. Can't be relied on
for full water protection without sealed seams.
- Coolmax
- DuPont's naturally hydrophobic polyester fiber with strong wicking
action. Often used in linings and light layering garments. Fabric
softeners may hurt its ability to transfer moisture.
- Cordura
- An impressively abrasion-resistant brushed-nylon fabric from
DuPont. Often used in luggage and backpacks. In clothing, most often
used as reinforcement patches at high-wear areas like knees,
shoulders, and arms. Popular Cordura blends: Cordura/Antron, Cordura
Plus, Cordura/Polyester/Cotton, Cordura/Supplex, Cordura/Taslan,
Spandura, WoolDura.
- DryFIT
- Nike's nylon/polyester push-pull fabric.
- DryLete
- Hind's nylon/polyester push-pull fabric.
- Dryline
- A nylon/polyester push-pull fabric most often used to line WP/B
outerwear.
- Dryloft
- A Gore membrane designed to be used in sleeping bags and down
outerwear. It is more breathable than Gore-Tex, but less waterproof.
The products which use this membrane are typically not seam-sealed.
- DWR
- Durable Water-Repellent, generally a silicone-based treatment
applied to outerwear fabrics to help keep them from becoming
saturated. DWR needs periodic touch-ups: Reactivate by machine
drying, careful ironing, or with spray-on treatments.
- Elements
- REI's version of Entrant.
- Entrant
- Is an elastic waterproof breathable polyurethane coating that
breathes through microscopic pores left during application. Made by
Toray Industries of Japan; licensed to numerous manufacturers under
various names. Entrant's trade-off between waterproofing and
breathability depends on coating thickness; more coating equals more
waterproofing less breatability. Popular versions include: REI's
Elements and Patagonia's H2No.
- Fleece
- Fortrel
- Polyester microfiber that adds a softer hand to other fabrics that
it is blended with.
- FuzzLite
- Sierra Designs' name for Polartec 200 fleece.
- Fuzzy Stuff
- A vapor-barrier-layer (VBL) fabric from Stephenson's Warmlite.
It's a laminate of nylon tricot and polyester film, napped on the
inside for a flannel-like feel. VBL garments stop all perspiration
from migrating outward into other clothing layers.
- Gore-Tex
- This is not a fabric, but a microporous membrane, which, when
laminated to an outer fabric layer, provides a waterproof barrier that
allows perspiration vapor to escape. Latest versions offer better
waterproofness at the expense of some breathability. Garments of
``three-layer'' construction look like a single fabric but are really
a sandwich of Gore-Tex laminated to one of a variety of tough outer
fabrics, backed by a protective tricot inner face. ``Two-layer''
construction mates the Gore-Tex and an outer fabric, with a separate
liner. Gore-Tex is no longer used in sleeping bag construction. A
new membrane called Dryloft is used instead.
- Gore-Tex LTD
- It islaminated to a liner that rides next to the body. This
improves moisture transfer but hampers waterproofing, so LTD is used
mainly for aerobic-activity apparel.
- Gore-Tex XCR
- Used in sweaters and outerwear. It is more windproof and
breathable than it is waterproof. This is the membrane used in
Polartec 1000 Windproof.
- Gridstop
- A three-layer waterproof / breathable fabric from Patagonia. It's
a sandwich of sturdy 2.5-ounce (per square yard) ripstop polyester, a
microporous laminate from Gore (Gore-Tex), and protective nylon tricot
inner facing.
- Gust Buster
- Sierra Designs' name for Polartec series 1000 fleece with a
windproof, water-repellent barrier between fleece layers. Inner layer
is hydrophillic, outer layer is hydrophobic.
- Helly-Tech
- Helly-Hansen's proprietary WP/B polyurethane coating. Available
in three degrees of performance: Helly-Tech Lightning (reasonably
waterproof, highly breathable); Helly-Tech Classic (waterproofing and
breathability about equal); and Helly-Tech Pro (generally more
waterproof than breathable).
- Hollofil
- Single-hole Dacron polyester insulation for sleeping bags
and apparel. Most often found in bargin brands. Hollofil II is a
four-hole version that's slightly warmer than an equal amount of
regular Hollofil, with improved stuffability.
- HP
- Sierra Designs' non-porous polyurethane WP/B coating, applied to
ripstop, taffeta, and Taslan fabrics. HP relies on body heat to push
water molecules through the coating into the outer fabric for
evaporation. Works best when the temperature inside the garment is
significantly higher than that outside.
- H2No
- Patagonia's version of Entrant WP/B coating, comes in increasingly
less breathable and more waterproof versions called Light, Alpine, and
Storm.
- Hydrofil
- Nylon from Allied Fibers that's modified to become hydrophillic,
so it transports moisture outward.
- Hydroseal
- An elastomeric coating used by Outdoor Research. It is extremely
tough and flexible (even at 40 below); ultra-waterproof (greater than
200 psi); and easily tapable. Used in OR stuff sacks.
- Lamilite
- Wiggy's polyester-based high-loft synthetic fill. Its continuous
fiber structure gives it a long service life compared with some
synthetics made of shorter fibers.
- Lite Loft
- 3M's high-loft lightweight 77.5 percent polyester / 22.5 percent
olefin insulation used in sleeping bags and outerwear.
- Lifa Prolite
- Helly-Hansen's polypropylene underlayer fabric. It's
distinguished by a soft brushed finish that isn't as scratchy as some
other polypro garments, and is more odor resistant than most polypro
gear.
- Microfiber
- Just what it sounds like -- an extremely fine, tightly woven fiber
that offers natural breathablility as well as wind and water
resistance. Two widely available brands are Versatech, Pertex, and
Super Microft. Other microfiber fabrics are treated with WP/B
laminates or coatings.
- Microloft
- New polyester fiberfill from DuPont, made up of microfine fibers
thinner than a human hair. The dense structure is claimed to trap
heat more efficiently than other synfills of equal thickness, and is
puportedly highly water-resistant.
- Microshed
- Solstice's proprietary polyurethane-based WP/B coating. Function
is similar to Entrant.
- Next-To-Skin
- The North Face's polyester / Lycra underwear fabric.
- Nomex
- A nylon fabric that's been modified to raise its melting point and
increase fire resistance. Most often used in uniforms for
firefighters, racecar drivers, and pilots. Stephenson Warmlite makes
sturdy (but expensive) Nomex trail jeans that won't melt when a
campfire spark lands in your lap.
- Nylon
- Generic term for an artificial fiber made from synthetic
polyamides extracted from coal and oil.
- Pile
- Polarguard / Polarguard HV
- High-loft synthetic insulation of 100 percent polyester
continuous-filament fibers. Polarguard is one of the original and
most durable synfills, if somewhat bulky when stuffed. New HV version
uses hollowed fibers and is about 25 percent more stuffable while
retaining longevity.
- Polartec
- Generic name for polyester fleece fabrics made by Malden
Mills and used by dozens for manufacturers. Comes in several weights
for layering versatility.
- Series 100
- (formerly Polartek) The lightest fleece, stretchy, with
a plush face and jersy back. Great base layer, with trim fit and full
freedom of movement.
- Series 200
- (formerly Polarlite) Midweight fleece, faced on two sides. Great
general-purpose layering weight.
- Series 100S/200S
- Lightweight and midweight fleeces made with extra Lycra; extra
stretchy and trim-fitting.
- Series 100M/200M
- Lightweight and midweight fleeces knit with superfine microfiber
yarns for a soft chamois-clothlike feel.
- Series 300
- (formerly Polar Plus) Fleeced on both sides of fabric; best for
cold-weather use.
- Series 1000 Windproof
- Three-layer sandwich of lightweight fleeces with a breathable /
windproof laminate in between. Impressively windproof in use, it has
a highly water-resistant surface, but it won't replace a truly
waterproof outer shell.
- Olefin (polypropylene)
- A paraffin-based synthetic fiber that's hydrophobic, quick-drying,
colorfast, and has good heat retention. Subject to sudden meltdown in
hot dryers.
- Omni-Tech
- Columbia's polyurethane WP/B coating used on several of the firm's
fabrics.
- Oxford Nylon
- Characterized by a basket weave and commonly used in rainwear.
- Packcloth
- Typically a nylon fabric of medium weave with a urethane
back-coating for water-repellency.
- Polyester
- Frequently blended with cotton, rayon, or other synthetics. A
synthetic fiber with features that include quick-drying,
high-strength, abrasion-resistance, crease resistance. It is more UV
resistant than nylon.
- Polypropylene
- Paraffin-based fiber that has high strength and great
moisture-management properties, but also has a reputation for odor
retention and high-temperature meltdown. Newer blends largely
overcome these maldies.
- Propile
- Helly-Hansen's fuzzy nylon pile fabric, knitted so it won't pill
like typical polyester pile.
- Push-Pull
- A two-part fabric of non-absorbant hydrophobic knit next to the
skin and absorbent hydrophyllic knit on the outside. Usually
polyester inside, nylon outside.
- Quallofil
- DuPont's six-channel Dacron polyester insulation with a
soft, downlike feel. Now being supplanted by newer fills.
- Rayon
- Generic term for synthetic fibers from trees, cotton, and woody
plants. Has a shiny appearance, drapes well, and feels silky. Too
absorbent for good moisture management.
- Retro Pile
- Patagonia's proprietary pile, 1/4 inch thick. This is thicker and
warmer than Polartec 300. This is really Patagonia's old Baby Retro
fabric. They discontinued the old, 1/2 inch thick Retro pile.
- Seal Coat
- An elastomeric waterproof coating used by Black Diamond. It is
completely waterproof and does not crack or peel. Used on many of
their products. Originally developed for Patagonia who still uses it
on their Skanorak parka.
- Sixty-Forty
- The 60 percent cotton / 40 percent nylon fabric used in the
classic ``60/40'' mountain parkas. Fabric has reasonable
water-repellency, but is not waterproof. Wears like iron, yet exibits
a soft, cottony hand.
- Solarplex
- This fabric combines tough Cordura yarns with extremely supple
high-filament-count Supplex yarns. Used by Outdoor Research.
- Spandex
- Lycra is DuPont's version of this synthetic fiber. Offers great
stretch and recovery, good strength, abrasion resistance, and
resistance to body acids. Used in combination with another fiber such
as cotton or nylon.
- Spandura
- A high-tech fabric combining the toughness of Cordura with the
stretchiness of Lycra. Each yarn consists of 1000d Cordura fibers
spun around a Lycra core. Spandura's resistance to abrasion is 2 1/2
times that of plain-weave 330 denier Cordura fabric, and 7 times that
of either 70d nylon fabric or typical polyester/cotton fabric.
- Super Pluma
- Patagonia's superlightweight WP/B fabric. It's a three-layer
sandwich of 1.1-ounce ripstop nylon, a microporous laminate from Gore
(Gore-Tex), and a tricot inner facing.
- Sympatex
- Sympatex is a membrane like Gore-Tex but is a non-microporous flat
film of ``hydrophilic (water-loving) polyester block copolymer.'' It
allows body heat to push perspiration vapor to the outside of the
garment. It's available in a direct laminate (applied to the back of
an outer shell), a three-ply laminate (Sympatex middle layer
sandwiched between outer fabric and lining), or an insert laminate
(free-hanging layer between outer shell and lining).
- Synchilla
- Patagonia's name for Malden Polartec fleeces. Original Synchilla
is equivalent to Polartec 300; Lightweight Synchilla to Polartec 200;
Stretch Synchilla to 100S/200S.
- Taffeta
- Any fabric that is woven with a plain weave to give a fine, smooth
look.
- Taslan
- Thermastat
- Thermal version of DuPont's Lycra for use in activewear. In
theory, it works according to what your body demands -- it helps cool
you when you're warm and warms you when you're cool.
- Thermax
- DuPont's soft hollow-core polyester fiber that has a cottony feel.
Used in underwear and activewear for its insulative properties.
Thanks to its warmth, quick-drying capabilities, and low ``stink''
factor, its has become a favorite all-around base layer.
- Thinsulate
- 3M's 35 percent polester / 65 percent olefin blend
insulation spun into a low-loft construction. Efficient insulator
considering its minimal thickness; most often used in outerwear and
gloves for its lack of bulk.
- Thermolactyl
- Damart's proprietary blend of Chlorofibre vinyon and
acrylic. It's soft, cottony-feeling stuff that dries fast and is
plenty warm, even when wet.
- Thermolite
- New 100 percent polyester-fiber compact insulation from
DuPont designed to compete with 3M Thinsulate. DuPont claims it is
less sensitive to dry cleaning solvents and heat than polyester /
olefin synfills. It's usually used in garments where a trim look
means more than puffy warmth.
- Thermoloft
- DuPont's midloft synthetic insulation with a combination
of Dacron solid-core polyester fibers and hollow Quallofil fibers.
Used where high-loft fills are too bulky and low-loft fills aren't
warm enough.
- Tri-Blend
- Any fabric consisting of a blend of three fibers. Frequently that
blend is cotton / polyester / nylon.
- Tricot
- A fabric woven with two threads that resists unraveling and
tearing by the nature of its weave.
- Triple-Point
- Lowe's microporous polyurethane WP/B coating that's similar in
function to Entrant. It comes in two weights: the 800 is less
breatable, but has more waterproofing and more durability than the
lighter weight 400 version, which offers more breathability than
waterproofing.
- Ultrex
- A microporous polyurethane coating from Burlington
Industries applied to the inside of numerous fabrics with a Durapel
DWR treatment on the outside. In our experience, it's generally more
waterproof than breathable.
- Wickline
- A bi-component fabric with hydrophylic nylon on one side and
hydorphobic polyester fibers on the other used by Outdoor Research.
This arrangement accomplishes two things: it wicks water very rapidly,
and the polyester side feels dry even when the fabric is soaked.